German restaurants, once common, are now rare. People used to go out to eat European foods, the sour cream sauces, the roasts that marinated for days. Deep, smokey flavors, and Sunday afternoon traditions of Mom having the day off. Today, it's all about the Asian experience, quick sauteing, lighter sauces and plenty of garlic. Still, a few holdouts from a bygone era hang on, both here and in the Old Country.

Westfalen Hof, in Golden Colorado (near Denver), was recently reviewed in Westword magazine (April 24, 2008). The atmosphere is that of a true "Bierstube" from another time, dark wood panelling, dour servers, kitchy decorations. But for lovers of real German fare, reviewer Jason Sheehan heartily recommends it, especially the koeniginpastetchen, tomato soup and the German salads. (Click here for full review.)

Germany faces the same problem in that real old-fashioned fare has gone out of style. Alongside fast food encroachments and Turkish restaurants there's hardly a market for soul-satisfying German dinners (at lunchtime) among young couples and families. An exception to this was reviewed by German food critic Wolfram Siebeck just this March (2008). Restaurant Laurentius, on the Romantic Street between Würzburg and Füssen in Weikersheim, Germany.

The cook, Jürgen Koch, was born and raised in Weikersheim and took over the family business. Because of his world travels he manages to bring modern touches to traditional fare. His meat is tender and his fish is fresh. He uses native herbs, such as Ramsons (wild garlic) in his mashed potatoes as a side dish to rabbit filet in morel cream. With his menu he pours wine made in Franconia. All this in a beautifully renovated, barrel vaulted cellar.

Mmm, makes me want to fly to Germany this week and start eating! Have you been to a German restaurant lately that you like? Since I don't get around the country, I'd love to hear about them in the German Food forum, and add your favorite menu item, too!

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